Back in late August 2016, I was on a two-week business trip in Taiwan. I really wanted to hit Taitung and Green Island Taiwan that weekend. But I hadn’t planned anything. Hotels and train tickets were impossible to find last minute. I just didn’t have enough time. So, I had to bail on that plan.
Fast forward to late April 2017. I had a week of classes in Taipei before a holiday. My boss wanted me to teach another week after the break. To save on travel costs, I needed to stay in Taiwan for the holiday. He asked my opinion. Of course, I said yes! I started researching and planning my itinerary months ahead.
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Hualien · Liyu Lake
I’ve always thought I’m a bit of a goofball. Every time I’m in Taiwan for work, I go all out. I’ve even gone for hotpot during a typhoon!
But I do have my fears, you know? First, I’m terrified of the dark. Any dark spot makes me think of ghosts. They’re just waiting to eat me! Second, snakes freak me out the most. Back in elementary school, I almost walked into a wall after a nap. Then, I saw this huge, colorful snake by the wall. It was over a meter long! I ran for my life. Since then, I often dream of being surrounded by snakes. Everywhere I step, I hit one. I wake up in a cold sweat.
So, walking a trail at night where snakes might be? That’s my ultimate nightmare. Yet, I threw caution to the wind. Why? Liyu Lake’s fireflies!
My original plan was just to crash in Hualien on Friday after class. I wanted to catch a train to Taitung the next day, saving some time. But my client told me it was firefly season at Liyu Lake. After watching too many romantic dramas, I just had to see them! 😉
I took a train from Taipei to Hualien after class that day. It was already 7 PM. I had no choice but to hire a private car for a night tour of Liyu Lake. I was teaching all day and prepping lessons at night. This meant zero time for planning. So, I chatted with my taxi driver on the way to the hotel. I also asked the hotel for a quote. Their price was three times higher than the taxi’s. I quickly dropped my bags and went with the taxi driver.
It was pitch dark. The taxi zipped along country roads. I felt a little nervous. The driver kept reassuring me, “Don’t worry! I’m a grandpa, you know.” Only in Taiwan would I feel this bold and carefree. I knew I was safe.
We reached the Liyu Lake parking lot. The driver said, “Go explore! I’ll wait here for you.”
I replied, “No way, sir, I’m scared! Come with me.”
The kind driver grabbed a flashlight. He walked with me around Liyu Lake. At first, it was just us two. We saw only a few scattered fireflies. Soon, more people joined us. We all walked deeper into the woods. We saw so many fireflies dancing! It was truly beautiful. However, photos just don’t capture it. Everything comes out black. So, I wonder: how do they get those amazing shots in movies and online?
Note: This is a photo I found online. My pictures looked nothing like this. It’s like a “buyer’s remorse” versus “seller’s perfect shot” situation! Also, the movie “The Classic” has stunning firefly scenes.
I went through all that trouble and fear just for fireflies. Then I called my dad. He said, “We have them right in the fields west of our village. I’ll show you when you come home.” It just goes to show you. We often chase distant dreams. We ignore the beauty right in front of us.
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Hualien → Taitung
On the first day of my holiday, I took a train from Hualien to Taitung. From there, I caught a boat from Fugang Fishing Port to Green Island Taiwan.
The train from Hualien to Taitung has mountain and coastal routes. However, I couldn’t get tickets for the coastal one. So, I ended up seeing the Central Mountain Range views.
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Taitung · Green Island
Green Island Taiwan is a small island. It sits 33 kilometers off Taiwan’s east coast in the Pacific. While researching, I learned that all the best ocean views in Taitung (besides Sanxiantai) are on Green Island. Plus, you can stargaze at night. You can also soak in the Zhaori Hot Spring at sunrise. It’s one of only three saltwater hot springs in the world! The guesthouses even organize night tours to see Formosan sika deer. If you’ve got the energy, you can try snorkeling too.
My plan sounded amazing. However, I got super seasick on the boat ride over. I always thought I didn’t get seasick. But ocean boats are different from inland ones. The guesthouse owner called it “undercurrents in the vast ocean.” Plus, my colleagues and clients gave me bad advice. They told me to sit at the front. I already knew from my research to sit at the back!
Anyway, I collapsed onto the bed at the guesthouse. I kept thinking, “Why did I pay good money for this misery?”
I lay in my room until 5 PM. The guesthouse owner finally couldn’t take it anymore. He knocked on my door. “We’ve rented a bicycle for you,” he said. “If you’re feeling better, we’ll take you to get it. Go eat something and look around, okay? Come back by 8 PM. We’ll find a guide for your night tour.”
One big thing on Green Island is “Pacific BBQ.” You grill right by the ocean, with a sea breeze. But the day before I arrived, over a dozen boatloads of people came. They were all group reservations. There was no way I’d find a seat alone. So, I grabbed a quick bite. I strolled by the beach. Then I headed back to the hotel to wait for the night tour.
With all those clouds, I gave up on seeing stars. So, I asked the guesthouse owner about the sunrise. “Will we see it tomorrow?” Other guests waiting for the night tour chimed in. “You’ll have to call Mr. Sun,” one joked. “Ask him if he’s working tomorrow!”
Seriously though, Taiwanese folks are incredibly warm and friendly. The guest who joked about Mr. Sun learned I couldn’t ride a scooter. He immediately told the guesthouse owner, “Does anyone have her for the night tour? My wife can take her. I’ll take the kids.” The next day, he even invited me to ride with them to the ferry terminal back to Taitung.
Night tours are another Green Island highlight. After 8 PM, guesthouse scooter fleets start rolling out. I heard our guesthouse only had two people the night before. But that night, we had a huge procession!
The night tour aims to spot wild Formosan sika deer. I heard there are over 1,000 wild deer on the island. They come out at night to forage. My biggest takeaway? Their eyes are so bright, like headlights!
To be honest, I’m not a fan of this activity. The guides shine flashlights for us. This scares the deer away. I think if the deer could talk, they’d be cussing us out! Humans should really leave them alone more.
I was seasick and exhausted on my first day. So, I didn’t force myself to wake up for sunrise. The next morning, the sun was shining bright. My mood lifted instantly. Sunny days make the ocean bluer. They also make for better photos.
I packed my bags and checked out. I left my luggage at the front desk. Then, I cheerfully hopped on my bike and set off.
My route was: guesthouse → Green Island Lighthouse → Human Rights Culture Park → Little Great Wall → Zhaori Hot Spring → then a full loop back to the guesthouse.
The Green Island Lighthouse was an easy first stop. The ocean views along the way were stunning. Taitung’s seas truly live up to their reputation. They’re pristine, clean, and gorgeous. I totally agree with online reviews: Taitung > Hualien > Kenting.
Next up was Green Island Prison. This is a real, active prison. It holds unmanageable, serious offenders. So, you can’t visit it.
The actual place you can visit is Green Island Human Rights Culture Park. This site imprisoned political dissidents during the White Terror era. I heard famous figures like Li Ao and Chen Shui-bian were jailed here. I read some survivor accounts from that time. It was incredibly heavy and depressing. I quickly left. Still, I admire the Taiwanese people’s courage to confront their history.
Inside or out, it was a torment. Yet, the scenery was absolutely breathtaking.
I felt pretty tired after leaving the Human Rights Culture Park. But there was no turning back. I really wanted to see “Sleeping Beauty and the Pekingese” at the Little Great Wall. My travel guide said it offered the best ocean views on Green Island.
So, I kept cycling uphill. Some friends and colleagues already told me this before my trip. They said you really need a scooter to explore Green Island properly. When I booked my guesthouse, several owners refused me a room. They heard I couldn’t ride a scooter or an electric bike. I wanted to go so badly. It took a lot of effort to find a guesthouse owner willing to book me a bicycle.
I thought, “It’s only 22 kilometers. The mountain road is just a bit hilly, right?”
Oh, boy…
Growing up on the flat North China Plain really made me naive.
The hills were so steep. I couldn’t pedal at all. I had to get off and push my bike in some spots. Lots of people stared at me like I was an alien. Some even yelled, “Keep going!” I thought to myself, “Keep going, my foot! Why don’t you actually help me?”
I don’t usually exercise much. I hadn’t eaten breakfast, either. My blood sugar crashed. I felt super dizzy. I quickly dropped my bike and squatted by the road. Sweating profusely, I called the guesthouse owner. I felt a bit embarrassed at first. Then I remembered: the owner’s wife insisted on giving me her card that morning. She told me to call if I needed anything. She probably saw this coming!
Sure enough, the guesthouse owner answered. “Okay, okay,” he said. “Stay put! We’ll be right there to get you.” By then, I had reached the Little Great Wall. It’s just a 300-meter staircase. The pavilion at the top offers the best view of Sleeping Beauty and the Pekingese.
I was so dizzy. But I thought, “I’m already here. I need to keep going.” I slowly made my way up. Halfway there, I started throwing up. Luckily, I hadn’t eaten breakfast. I dry-heaved for a while. Still, I felt a little better afterward.
The sky was getting cloudy by the time I reached the top. I snapped two quick photos. Then, the guesthouse owner arrived. He loaded me and my bike into his vehicle. He drove us back down.
The guesthouse owner brought me down from the mountain. After a short rest, I took the boat back to Taitung.
I made sure to sit at the back of the boat this time. No problems at all on the return trip.
I originally wanted to visit Sanxiantai. But honestly, I just couldn’t be bothered.
My hotel in Taitung upgraded my room. I got a huge one! They also offered free drinks and ice cream in the lobby. I felt alive again.
To sum up Green Island: The ocean there is absolutely stunning. I don’t regret the trip one bit. However, I am definitely never going back! I’ve seen the Pacific. That’s enough for one lifetime.
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Taitung · Chien-Hsiang Hotel
I got back to Taitung too late. Chishang was out of the question. Luye’s hot air balloon festival wasn’t in season yet. I also skipped Sanxiantai and “Water Running Upstream.” My only mission left was food.
My client recommended the Chien-Hsiang Hotel in Taitung. It had the highest ratings on ezTravel, too. I barely managed to snag a room!
The hotel’s famous for its late-night buffet. They serve Danzai noodles. I hadn’t eaten breakfast the first day, leaving Hualien. I skipped lunch on the boat, fearing seasickness. So, I only had a few fried skewers on Green Island that night. The next day, I didn’t eat breakfast before cycling. I also skipped lunch, again fearing seasickness. I was totally starving for that late-night snack.
I devoured two bowls of noodles. I also ate three slices of cake and a huge plate of fruit. Plus, I had some ice cream. I felt completely satisfied. I decided right then: no more sightseeing in Taitung. I’d head straight back to Taipei the next morning.
Note: Everyone knows Danzai noodles are a Tainan specialty. I’ve tried “authentic” Tainan Danzai noodles elsewhere, even in Taipei. Honestly, they weren’t that great. This was the only delicious Tainan Danzai noodle I’ve ever had. Or maybe I was just so hungry after two days. Everything tasted amazing then!
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